The Road To Kathmandu
25th February - 6th March 2015 $ 3,995
" If Nepal doesn't bring a smile to your face every single day, you're a lost cause" Jack Witts
Nepal has something unique to offer people from all walks of life, with all sorts of needs, interests, temperaments and dispositions. Draped along the greatest heights of the Himalaya, Nepal is where the ice-cold of the mountains meets the steamy heat of the Indian plains. It’s a land of yaks and yetis, stupas and sherpas and some of the best trekking on earth. The Himalaya’s most sophisticated urban cultures took shape here, in the three great mini kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley - Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, homes to a world class artistic and architectural heritage.
Nepal is not just a bungee jumping, white water rafting shangri-la. It’s also one of the poorest countries on earth. However, many visitors, drawn to Nepal by the promise of adventure, leave equally enhanced by the friendliness and open nature of the Nepali people. From the natural rhythm you ease into on a trek to the rhythm of a tabla drum at one of Kathmandu’s palace restaurants, Nepal is an amazingly diverse country that offers something for everyone. One journey through this land is rarely enough. The first thing many people do after a visit is start planning the next one.
Nepal is not just a bungee jumping, white water rafting shangri-la. It’s also one of the poorest countries on earth. However, many visitors, drawn to Nepal by the promise of adventure, leave equally enhanced by the friendliness and open nature of the Nepali people. From the natural rhythm you ease into on a trek to the rhythm of a tabla drum at one of Kathmandu’s palace restaurants, Nepal is an amazingly diverse country that offers something for everyone. One journey through this land is rarely enough. The first thing many people do after a visit is start planning the next one.
" IT IS HARD TO FIND WORDS THAT DO JUSTICE TO WONDERFUL KATHMANDU. One ridge away from the highest mountains in the world, and thronged by a million Hindus and Buddhists, this princely city is the archetypal mountain kingdom. Mystical, magical and arcane."
Leo Edwards
Temples loom out of the mist around every corner, and the cobbled streets resound with the chanting of mantras and the chiming of temple bells. At dusk the city is transformed into a cut-out of stupas, prayer flags and temple spires. On clear days, a wall of snow covered mountains rises behind Kathmandu and eagles soar majestically overhead on the high tibetan winds - It’s like the special effects from The Lord Of The Rings, but right there, alive, in the real world.
The main reason for Kathmandu’s remarkable state of preservation is it’s unique geographical situation. There are only two roads out of Kathmandu Valley, one going north to Lhasa in Tibet and the other winding down to the Terai plains, a five hour journey to cover a distance of 50 kilometres. Historically, this was Kathmandu’s best defense against foreign invaders. Unlike India & Tibet, Nepal was never conquered by the British.
The city’s meteoric rise to fame began in 1769 when the Gurkha king Prithvi Narayan Shah swept eastwards from his base at Gorkha, conquering the towns on the valley rim and isolating Kathmandu. Bhaktapur and Patan from the outside world. This marked the start of the golden age of Kathmandu architecture. Temple strewn Durbar Square has barely changed since. As the city grew, the natural fortification of the valley walls became a hindrance rather than an asset. Everything had to be trekked in from the plains of India, and builders had nowhere to go but up, explaining the rather chaotic skyline of leaning brick towers.
Politics also played a role in Kathmandu’s state of suspended animation. From 1816 to 1950 Nepal was completely cut off from the outside world, vanishing into legend as another forbidden kingdom of the Himalaya. The Swiss explorer Toni Hagen was the first European allowed in and he walked all over the country, setting a precedent for the 200,000 trekkers who now visit Nepal every year.
Kathmandu is trying hard to make up for lost time, but many of its day to day essentials still arrive via the crowded mountain road from the Indian border. And while broadband internet and ATM banking have reached the city, there is no reliable mobile phone signal and the network is often turned off completely during times of political crisis, which maintains the sense of isolation. On the other hand, few modern cities can match Kathmandu for history, scenery and culture. Not to mention it’s spirituality, energy and diversity.
There is something impressive about a large group of people who all believe the same thing. There are places in Kathmandu that have a spiritual energy you can almost taste in the air, this seems to resonate with most travellers. Not many leave without giving at least a moments thought to their position in the universe.
Perhaps it has something to do with the location, surrounded by the highest peaks in the world. Or, maybe it’s the clear mountain air. Perhaps it’s just that spirituality seems to make more sense when you are traveling, away from the material concerns of electricity bills and the daily commute. Whether the spiritual feel-good factor survives the transition back to normal life is another matter, but quite a few travellers arrive agnostic and go home wearing the red robes of Buddhist monks.
So, get your camera bag ready, then use the silence for meditation, and a little yoga before leaping into possibly the most animated photography experience anywhere in the world.
DAY 1-2 We meet in Kathmandu in the evening of day one for some orientation, to meet the group and discuss the trip ahead. The next day we start early after breakfast and head to the Buddhist Stupa of Swayambhunath, reputed to be the oldest in Nepal, and also known as the Monkey Temple. It gives a spectacular panoramic view over Kathmandu. Steep stone steps rise to the base of the Stupa, lorded over by Buddha’s golden eyes, while wild monkeys swing on the strands of prayer flags.
Later in the day we visit the Hindu temple and funeral ghats of Pashupatinath, where we will find ourselves confronted by a huge diversity of Sadhus, wandering holy men who live off alms and perform extreme acts of self denial to improve their spiritual well- being. The ultimate role model for sadhus is Lord Shiva himself. According to legend, the trident toting god spent ten thousand years meditating in the Himalaya and smoking charas (hash) to achieve a higher state of spiritual consciousness.
Even today, sadhus are the only people in Nepal who are legally permitted to smoke marijuana. In exchange for donations of money or food, sadhus place a tilak on the forehead of devotees, a symbol of blessing from the gods. The tilak can range from a small dot to a huge smear of coloured powder and rice. Wearing the mark is a sign of divine protection.
While here you will be overwhelmed with the photo opportunities that present themselves and we will have ample time to talk about the camera and light in preparation for the journey ahead.
DAY 3 expresses the energy and atmosphere of kathmandu, Bodhnath, the great Buddhist stupa on the Eastern side of Kathmandu valley. It is the religious centre for Nepal’s Tibetan population, one of the few places where their culture is vibrant and unfettered. Every day, thousands of Buddhist pilgrims complete the ceremonial circumnavigation of the stupa, moving clockwise around the gleaming dome in a continuous human tide, beneath a rainbow coloured canopy of fluttering prayer flags.
Here in the crowd you will get to photograph the wind weathered faces of refugees from the high plains of Tibet, and shaven headed monks in carmine robes spinning prayer wheels and murmering the mantra ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’ (Hail To The Jewel In The Lotus). The most devoted pilgrims measure out the route with their own bodies, laying face down on the ground, then getting up and taking a few steps before dropping back down, in the ultimate act of ritual prostration.
We will spend most of the day around this region for the plethora of diverse opportunities that will present themselves.
DAY 4 A short ride out from our hotel around the Tundikhel to Durbar Square to explore dozens of mystical medieval temples and admire the extraordinary indulgence of the old royal palace at Hanuman Dhoka - it’s like stepping back 300 years. In the afternoon we will stroll through the old bazaars at Asan Tole and Indra Chowk and then up to Thamel and enjoy a quick banana pancake.
Just before sunset we will head back to Bodhnath to catch the evening circumambulation of the great stupa in golden hour light, then finish off the day with a steak and a beer at the perennially popular New Orleans Cafe in preparation for the long day of travel ahead of us tomorrow. We will also have a chance to stock up on any trekking gear required for the next few days at the Annapurnas.
DAY 5 We set of early for the long drive ahead to Pokhara (actually only 80km) but will take the best part of the day due to the road and Nepal chaos. But we promise it will be a trip you never forget. We will be making a few scheduled scenic stops along the way and probably a few unscheduled ones as well as the madness unfolds and presents an intimate range of subjects for our photography.
As we approach Pokhara towards sunset, expect some wow moments all round as we catch the golden light glancing of the spectacular Annapurna Range, before checking into our luxurious mountain retreat for some well deserved R&R.
DAY 6 We will be up before the sun today, complete with a take away breakfast in search of spectacular panoramas and vistas on a trek to Sarangkot to capture the best possible view of the sun rising over the snow capped mountains all around us. From our vantage point at the top we have several options. For the truly adventurous you can be back at ground level in just over a minute on one of the fastest zip lines in the world, and make your way back to base to relax.
Or you might prefer to paraglide gently back to earth with your camera and perform some amazing aerial photography (steady cam not required). If like me you enjoy your heights with your feet firmly on the ground and have some energy left we can continue trekking from Sarangkot to Naudanda which is a further spectacular 4 hour trek where our vehicle will meet us with refreshments and drive us back to base.
DAY 7 We make our way to Phewa lake in time catch the mist rising off the water, and man small paddle boats that will allow us to catch some great vistas in the calm lake’s reflections before docking on the central island that is home to Barahi Temple the most important Hindu religious site in Pokhara.
The temple represents the force of Shakti, who is the origin of universal creativity and power. Shakti assumes several forms, including a boar called Barahi, pictured with the face of a boar with a cup in one hand and a fish in the other; in deference to the goddess no fishing is allowed in the waters surrounding the island, and the fish, perhaps sensing this protected zone, swarm to the shores of the island.
From there we continue our journey across the lake to the opposite shore line to begin our trek upwards to the brilliant white World Peace Pagoda. Balanced on a narrow ridge high above the lake it offers yet more sweeping panoramas but with the added beauty of Pokhara and the sapphire blue lake cradled in the valley below.
After relaxing and refueling at The Peace Dragon Lodge we will make the slow descent down towards the lake to take in the changing light approaching sunset.
DAY 8 Our drivers will take us up into the hills above the Seti river to Jangchub Choeling Monastery. In 1963, his holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa asked Dupsing Rinpoche to leave Kathmnadu for Pokhara in order to meet the spiritual needs of the Tibetan and Nepalese population there.
At first, a small monastery was established for performing Buddhist services and ceremonies. Over time, as the number of devotees grew, parents began to ask Dupsing Rinpoche to ordain their sons as monks, before long there were 35 monks, including a young tulku, the present Shanpa Rinpoche.
In 1967, his holiness the 14th Dalai Lama named the monastery “Jangchub Choeling” and officially recognised the monastic community under the guidance of Dupsing Rinpoche. Over the last 20 years, Shangpa Rinpoche has continually expanded and improved the facilities at the monastery. At present there are around 115 monks living and studying at the monastery and institute.
While here we will get to spend time with the monks and enjoy a local lunch in the connecting village, full of interesting faces. On the way back down we will follow the Seti river and stop to capture it’s power at some key vantage points.
DAY 9 We say goodbye to our mountain retreat and head for Pokhara airport for the short flight back to Kathmandu and check back into our hotel base for our final night in Nepal. Around 4pm we will head out through the open markets of Kathmandu and 7km into the farmlands to visit Mr. Ramesh & Mrs. Sarla at the Supportive Self Sustaining Orphan Home. Surrounded by fields, chicken farms and forests the setting is very authentic and represents the natural Nepali way of living.
With limited exposure to foreigners, some villagers, above all kids, look at you with inquisitive eyes and cheeky smiles, when you are walking through the village.
The Orphan home is a self sustaining home, which is very different to most of the orphanages in Nepal. No funding is received from the government - but the positive thing about it is that they can act in a more independent way. So they are growing their own vegetables, selling their own eggs and chickens, getting their milk from their own buffalo etc. Something that most of us in the West have all but forgotten.
We always take a large consignment of rice and staples up to the orphanage on our visit so the mini buses can be a bit crowded on the way way but one smile makes it all worthwhile. Heading back into the insanity of Kathmandu through the rush hour traffic is an experience in itself.
Later that evening will have a farewell dinner at our base, and prizes will be given for the “Image of The Trip”, farewells and contacts details will be exchanged between new friends and old and you will retire to bed likely planning your next visit to the region - after all one bite of Nepal is never enough...
DAY 10 We have organised a late checkout from our base so you are free to lay in until 2pm if you need to until your international flight departure.
Luggage can also be left securely if your flight is not until later in the day, leaving you free for one last taste of Kathmandu. Our team will be on hand throughout this day to make sure you have everything you need and to take you across town to the airport.
It’s been an adventure and we hope to see you again soon on another photographic tour
The main reason for Kathmandu’s remarkable state of preservation is it’s unique geographical situation. There are only two roads out of Kathmandu Valley, one going north to Lhasa in Tibet and the other winding down to the Terai plains, a five hour journey to cover a distance of 50 kilometres. Historically, this was Kathmandu’s best defense against foreign invaders. Unlike India & Tibet, Nepal was never conquered by the British.
The city’s meteoric rise to fame began in 1769 when the Gurkha king Prithvi Narayan Shah swept eastwards from his base at Gorkha, conquering the towns on the valley rim and isolating Kathmandu. Bhaktapur and Patan from the outside world. This marked the start of the golden age of Kathmandu architecture. Temple strewn Durbar Square has barely changed since. As the city grew, the natural fortification of the valley walls became a hindrance rather than an asset. Everything had to be trekked in from the plains of India, and builders had nowhere to go but up, explaining the rather chaotic skyline of leaning brick towers.
Politics also played a role in Kathmandu’s state of suspended animation. From 1816 to 1950 Nepal was completely cut off from the outside world, vanishing into legend as another forbidden kingdom of the Himalaya. The Swiss explorer Toni Hagen was the first European allowed in and he walked all over the country, setting a precedent for the 200,000 trekkers who now visit Nepal every year.
Kathmandu is trying hard to make up for lost time, but many of its day to day essentials still arrive via the crowded mountain road from the Indian border. And while broadband internet and ATM banking have reached the city, there is no reliable mobile phone signal and the network is often turned off completely during times of political crisis, which maintains the sense of isolation. On the other hand, few modern cities can match Kathmandu for history, scenery and culture. Not to mention it’s spirituality, energy and diversity.
There is something impressive about a large group of people who all believe the same thing. There are places in Kathmandu that have a spiritual energy you can almost taste in the air, this seems to resonate with most travellers. Not many leave without giving at least a moments thought to their position in the universe.
Perhaps it has something to do with the location, surrounded by the highest peaks in the world. Or, maybe it’s the clear mountain air. Perhaps it’s just that spirituality seems to make more sense when you are traveling, away from the material concerns of electricity bills and the daily commute. Whether the spiritual feel-good factor survives the transition back to normal life is another matter, but quite a few travellers arrive agnostic and go home wearing the red robes of Buddhist monks.
So, get your camera bag ready, then use the silence for meditation, and a little yoga before leaping into possibly the most animated photography experience anywhere in the world.
DAY 1-2 We meet in Kathmandu in the evening of day one for some orientation, to meet the group and discuss the trip ahead. The next day we start early after breakfast and head to the Buddhist Stupa of Swayambhunath, reputed to be the oldest in Nepal, and also known as the Monkey Temple. It gives a spectacular panoramic view over Kathmandu. Steep stone steps rise to the base of the Stupa, lorded over by Buddha’s golden eyes, while wild monkeys swing on the strands of prayer flags.
Later in the day we visit the Hindu temple and funeral ghats of Pashupatinath, where we will find ourselves confronted by a huge diversity of Sadhus, wandering holy men who live off alms and perform extreme acts of self denial to improve their spiritual well- being. The ultimate role model for sadhus is Lord Shiva himself. According to legend, the trident toting god spent ten thousand years meditating in the Himalaya and smoking charas (hash) to achieve a higher state of spiritual consciousness.
Even today, sadhus are the only people in Nepal who are legally permitted to smoke marijuana. In exchange for donations of money or food, sadhus place a tilak on the forehead of devotees, a symbol of blessing from the gods. The tilak can range from a small dot to a huge smear of coloured powder and rice. Wearing the mark is a sign of divine protection.
While here you will be overwhelmed with the photo opportunities that present themselves and we will have ample time to talk about the camera and light in preparation for the journey ahead.
DAY 3 expresses the energy and atmosphere of kathmandu, Bodhnath, the great Buddhist stupa on the Eastern side of Kathmandu valley. It is the religious centre for Nepal’s Tibetan population, one of the few places where their culture is vibrant and unfettered. Every day, thousands of Buddhist pilgrims complete the ceremonial circumnavigation of the stupa, moving clockwise around the gleaming dome in a continuous human tide, beneath a rainbow coloured canopy of fluttering prayer flags.
Here in the crowd you will get to photograph the wind weathered faces of refugees from the high plains of Tibet, and shaven headed monks in carmine robes spinning prayer wheels and murmering the mantra ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’ (Hail To The Jewel In The Lotus). The most devoted pilgrims measure out the route with their own bodies, laying face down on the ground, then getting up and taking a few steps before dropping back down, in the ultimate act of ritual prostration.
We will spend most of the day around this region for the plethora of diverse opportunities that will present themselves.
DAY 4 A short ride out from our hotel around the Tundikhel to Durbar Square to explore dozens of mystical medieval temples and admire the extraordinary indulgence of the old royal palace at Hanuman Dhoka - it’s like stepping back 300 years. In the afternoon we will stroll through the old bazaars at Asan Tole and Indra Chowk and then up to Thamel and enjoy a quick banana pancake.
Just before sunset we will head back to Bodhnath to catch the evening circumambulation of the great stupa in golden hour light, then finish off the day with a steak and a beer at the perennially popular New Orleans Cafe in preparation for the long day of travel ahead of us tomorrow. We will also have a chance to stock up on any trekking gear required for the next few days at the Annapurnas.
DAY 5 We set of early for the long drive ahead to Pokhara (actually only 80km) but will take the best part of the day due to the road and Nepal chaos. But we promise it will be a trip you never forget. We will be making a few scheduled scenic stops along the way and probably a few unscheduled ones as well as the madness unfolds and presents an intimate range of subjects for our photography.
As we approach Pokhara towards sunset, expect some wow moments all round as we catch the golden light glancing of the spectacular Annapurna Range, before checking into our luxurious mountain retreat for some well deserved R&R.
DAY 6 We will be up before the sun today, complete with a take away breakfast in search of spectacular panoramas and vistas on a trek to Sarangkot to capture the best possible view of the sun rising over the snow capped mountains all around us. From our vantage point at the top we have several options. For the truly adventurous you can be back at ground level in just over a minute on one of the fastest zip lines in the world, and make your way back to base to relax.
Or you might prefer to paraglide gently back to earth with your camera and perform some amazing aerial photography (steady cam not required). If like me you enjoy your heights with your feet firmly on the ground and have some energy left we can continue trekking from Sarangkot to Naudanda which is a further spectacular 4 hour trek where our vehicle will meet us with refreshments and drive us back to base.
DAY 7 We make our way to Phewa lake in time catch the mist rising off the water, and man small paddle boats that will allow us to catch some great vistas in the calm lake’s reflections before docking on the central island that is home to Barahi Temple the most important Hindu religious site in Pokhara.
The temple represents the force of Shakti, who is the origin of universal creativity and power. Shakti assumes several forms, including a boar called Barahi, pictured with the face of a boar with a cup in one hand and a fish in the other; in deference to the goddess no fishing is allowed in the waters surrounding the island, and the fish, perhaps sensing this protected zone, swarm to the shores of the island.
From there we continue our journey across the lake to the opposite shore line to begin our trek upwards to the brilliant white World Peace Pagoda. Balanced on a narrow ridge high above the lake it offers yet more sweeping panoramas but with the added beauty of Pokhara and the sapphire blue lake cradled in the valley below.
After relaxing and refueling at The Peace Dragon Lodge we will make the slow descent down towards the lake to take in the changing light approaching sunset.
DAY 8 Our drivers will take us up into the hills above the Seti river to Jangchub Choeling Monastery. In 1963, his holiness the 16th Gyalwa Karmapa asked Dupsing Rinpoche to leave Kathmnadu for Pokhara in order to meet the spiritual needs of the Tibetan and Nepalese population there.
At first, a small monastery was established for performing Buddhist services and ceremonies. Over time, as the number of devotees grew, parents began to ask Dupsing Rinpoche to ordain their sons as monks, before long there were 35 monks, including a young tulku, the present Shanpa Rinpoche.
In 1967, his holiness the 14th Dalai Lama named the monastery “Jangchub Choeling” and officially recognised the monastic community under the guidance of Dupsing Rinpoche. Over the last 20 years, Shangpa Rinpoche has continually expanded and improved the facilities at the monastery. At present there are around 115 monks living and studying at the monastery and institute.
While here we will get to spend time with the monks and enjoy a local lunch in the connecting village, full of interesting faces. On the way back down we will follow the Seti river and stop to capture it’s power at some key vantage points.
DAY 9 We say goodbye to our mountain retreat and head for Pokhara airport for the short flight back to Kathmandu and check back into our hotel base for our final night in Nepal. Around 4pm we will head out through the open markets of Kathmandu and 7km into the farmlands to visit Mr. Ramesh & Mrs. Sarla at the Supportive Self Sustaining Orphan Home. Surrounded by fields, chicken farms and forests the setting is very authentic and represents the natural Nepali way of living.
With limited exposure to foreigners, some villagers, above all kids, look at you with inquisitive eyes and cheeky smiles, when you are walking through the village.
The Orphan home is a self sustaining home, which is very different to most of the orphanages in Nepal. No funding is received from the government - but the positive thing about it is that they can act in a more independent way. So they are growing their own vegetables, selling their own eggs and chickens, getting their milk from their own buffalo etc. Something that most of us in the West have all but forgotten.
We always take a large consignment of rice and staples up to the orphanage on our visit so the mini buses can be a bit crowded on the way way but one smile makes it all worthwhile. Heading back into the insanity of Kathmandu through the rush hour traffic is an experience in itself.
Later that evening will have a farewell dinner at our base, and prizes will be given for the “Image of The Trip”, farewells and contacts details will be exchanged between new friends and old and you will retire to bed likely planning your next visit to the region - after all one bite of Nepal is never enough...
DAY 10 We have organised a late checkout from our base so you are free to lay in until 2pm if you need to until your international flight departure.
Luggage can also be left securely if your flight is not until later in the day, leaving you free for one last taste of Kathmandu. Our team will be on hand throughout this day to make sure you have everything you need and to take you across town to the airport.
It’s been an adventure and we hope to see you again soon on another photographic tour
